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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.